2012 - MTB in Alpes de Haute Provence (in english)

 2012 - MTB in Alpes de Haute Provence

September 21 - 30, 2012

Overall itinerary

This year Mike and Thom being in New Zealand could not participate in our annual trip, and having failed to convince my friends from the Massa Martana MTB group to join me (they all work and have young children in school) I decided to go alone.

I decided to go to Alpes de Haute Provence in late September to get some decent weather.

Itinerary

Among the many MTB routes described by VTopo I selected the following:

- "les chemins du soleil" from Grenoble to Nice,

- "la Transverdon" from Col d'Allos to Manosque,

- "Alpes-Provence" from Col de Larche ending also Manosque.

I combined these three routes into a loop circuit in the Alpes de Haute Provence. :

a) - starting in Castellane and along the gorges of Verdon via Rougon, La Palud sur Verdon, Esparron and Gréoux-les-Bains to reach Manosque.

b) - from Manosque via St Michel-l'observatoire and St Etienne-les-Orgues to climb the mountain of Lure and down the ridge trail to Peipin.

c) - from Peipin to Digne-les-Bains across the "terres noires" via les Dourbes, Tartonne, Thorame-basse, St André-les-Alpes and back to Castellane.

Cartography

The VTopo guides mentioned above include copies of IGN detailed maps at 1/50, 000, route description and indicate places of interest on, or near the route. To minimize weight I take along only the pages relevant to my itinerary.  However only 1/25,000 maps are precise enough on these type of MB trips, but they are heavy.

My solution:

"Openrunner" (www.openrunner.com) is a site that lets you draw your route and gives you distance and altitude gains, using IGN maps.

I trace my route on openrunner and do a "screen save" as soon as my route leaves the screen and save it as a JPEG file.  I continue drawing my route for the day and I save the file, which is then "interpreted" by openrunner to show me the course of the day in terms of distance and altitude gain.  I save this file as a JPEG.

Then I transfer these JPEG images to "dropbox", arranges them in the order of the route and the load on my Iphone.

Advantage: less weight and I don't have to purchase IGN maps (approx 10 € a map!).

Disadvantages: files on Iphone are not as sharp as paper maps, I need to carry along the Iphone charger, and in case of problems with Iphone I am without maps, however for this trip the route was so well marked in the field that I could have continued without maps.

Material and equipment

With my new full suspension bike the only possible luggage are a handlebar bag (to put maps, documents and some emergency rations) and a small bag under the seat to put repair equipment (spare tube, patches, glue, tools, etc.), everything else should go in a backpack.

After a ruthless selection I managed to reduce the weight of the backpack to 4, 5 kg. Under these conditions elegance and fancy aftershave will stay behind!

For future information I take:

Backpack (780 gr.):

1 long pants (320 gr)

1 long sleeve shirt (213 gr)

2 underwear (170 gr)

2 pairs of socks (137 gr)

1 T-shirt to sleep (206 gr)

1 short sleeve shirt synthetic fabric (143 gr)

2 synthetic long sleeved shirts (380 gr)

1 biking jacket gore-wind mid-season (462 gr)

1 rain pants (209 gr)

1 rain jacket (310 gr)

 overshoes (106 gr)

 toilet kit (207 gr)

charger for Iphone (91 gr)

documents, money, credit card, paper and pencil (240 gr)

3 maps (312 gr)

selected pages of guides (164 gr)

flashlight (51 gr)

warm hat and gloves (150 gr)

all wrapped in plastic bags to ensure waterproofing

Total  (backpack included): 4515 gr

handlebar bag (650 g)

Iphone (150 gr)

route maps for the day

knife (48 gr)

glasses (100 gr)

emergency food (150 gr)

Total (bag included): 1098 gr

seatbag (165 gr):

spare tube, patches, tire levers and glue (162 gr)

multi-tool (160 gr)

chain oil, brush and cloth (50 gr)

derailleur hanger (16 gr)

lock (263 gr)

1 set of pads for disc brakes (31 gr)

Total (bag included):  847 gr

on the bike:

2 water canteens (total capacity 1.25 L)

air pump (181 gr)

At 4,5 kg the weight of the backpack was not a problem and I could enjoy riding the trails, in any case I cannot see how to lower the weight any further!

The trip

Originally the trip was planned for late August but because of lack of accommodations in the refuges I rescheduled it for the end of September. In spite of this I still could not get accommodation for the first day before Moustiers-Ste-Marie a first day ride of 60 km and 1900 meters of elevation gain!

September 22: Castellane to Moustiers-Ste-Marie (60 km, D+ 1900 m)

After a night at the gite "Oustaou" in Castellane (tel. 04 9283 7727), Christian manager of the gite, agrees to keep me company on his MTB as far as Rougon. The first kilometers are always slow since one has to get used to riding with a backpack, to find the right rhythm and to warm up the muscles.  It is cool but as the sun comes up and as we pedal harder and harder we quickly take off jackets and gloves.

Nice track sometime a bit (or very!) rocky in places and we reach the plateau de Suech at 1200 m.

Rougon above the Gorges du Verdon is also known for its vulture’s nests in the walls of the gorge, but they must be sleeping since I could not see a singe one.

I continue alone to "les Chauvets" and after a nice downhill to La Palud-sur-Verdon I have a quite good lamb "tajine" for lunch.  The trail climbs (I push the bike) to Chateauneuf-les-Moustiers and continues on the north side of the ridge Montdenier on a pleasant old Roman road to a place called "les Bondils."

My full suspension bike is much more comfortable and efficient than the old semi-rigid, and much lighter to carry. The backpack is also much more convenient than rear panniers.

The climb to the top of the "pavillon" (elev. 1625 m) is hard with a lot of walking/pushing and frequent stops to rest, but the view from the top is well worth the effort. The descent is on a very technical single track, very rocky and tricky to ride, I do most of it on foot and very slowly. The end of the descent to Moustiers is easier but not before going up another very steep hill impossible to do on a bike.

I found the hotel easily; thirty Quebecois bikers visiting the area on bikes occupy it.

No problem sleeping after this rough first day, I just hope tomorrow will be easier.

September 23: Moustiers to St Martin-de-Brome (72 km, D+ 1216 m)

The track is nice to Lake Ste Croix, and then becomes a very difficult climb to reach the "plateau de Valensole", I did push the bike all the way up and arriving on the plateau was quite a relief.

Nice trail after Moustiers

Lac Ste Croix

Beginning of the climb to plateau de Valensole

Hard track, all uphill.

Plateau de Valensole

Lavender fields (smells good too!)

After Montpezat, a pretty village, there is a great downhill trail following "ravin de St. Pierre" which ends up by a small lake, where I had a quick picnic. My "real" lunch was in Quinson where I had a huge "salade de crudités" with a beer.

The gite du Payanet is 2-3 kms before St. Martin-de-Brome: it is out in the woods, I have the second floor all to myself, while downstairs is a group of delinquent youngsters being "reinserted" in society. The "coaches" have a tough job that they are doing with conviction and consideration under difficult circumstances, they have to be admired. The home cooked "civet de lièvre" served for dinner was delicious with a glass of local rosé wine.

September 24: St Martin-de Brome to St Michel-l'observatoire (44 km, D+ 1302 m)

Overcast skies and rainy forecast, a good opportunity to try my new lightweight, ultra waterproof and breathable rain jacket! First drops while passing through Gréoux-les-Bains, a spa town without much interest, followed by a real rain storm where I quickly put on jacket, pants and overshoes rain: I stay perfectly dry, jacket was a great purchase!

Down to Manosque I met a lone young hiker who left Royan and heading to Grasse. We talk while our clothes dry.

Getting out of Manosque I follow in reverse the route "Alpes-Provence". No difficulty since I have the IGN maps, but it would have been easier if the track had been marked in both directions. I should say here that the routes are very well marked and it would be possible to follow them without any maps (not that I suggest it!)

At Dauphin I met a biker who offered to accompany me to St Michel-l'observatoire on small paths known only to himself. Pleasant ride where I just follow without any concern for directions to the hotel de l'observatoire (tel. 04 9276 5227) in St Michel. My room had a great view of the surrounding countryside.

Room with a view (and sunshine!)

Day of rest before climbing the mountain of Lure tomorrow.

September 25: St Michel-l'observatoire to Peipin (66 km, D+ 1820 m)

Speaking with the owner of the hotel who informed me that the weather was supposed to worsen in the next few days, I decided to climb mountain de Lure to day. To save time I decided to take the asphalt road to St-Etienne-les-Orgues.

The route was without interest via Revest-des-Brousses and Ongles until St Etienne-les-Orgues: the climb to the top of Lure was slow and monotonous interrupted only by several showers (thanks again to my waterproof jacket.   

Great house near Revest-des-Brousses

Since there are markers for distance and altitude on the road I checked my meter and realized that it was 3-4% optimistic on distance.  At the summit, candidates to an outdoors school were fighting fog, cold (10°C) and violent wind while going through various outdoors exercises.  For information for future trips there is a gite a little below the top of Lure (tel. 04 9273 1914 to be checked) but it looked closed during my visit.

The strong wind cleared the fog at "pas de la graille" and I started a nice descent on the crest trail going all the way down to Peipin where I find a place at the gite "la Feiniere" (tel. 04 9262 4402).

The descent was the high point (so to speak!) of the day, not too technical, beautiful scenery and all downhill.

Looking back on "pas de la Graille"

Windy and stormy day on top of Lure.

Cairn 2000

Jacques in front of Cairn 2000

Great vistas from the top of Lure

September 26: Peipin to Mallemoisson (36 km, D+ 900 m)

From Peipin I join the" chemins du soleil" track that I shall follow as far as Castellane, it is also very well marked and to-day will be an easy day of few kilometers and my first foray in the "terres noires" a soil made of broken slate material.

This morning to lighten my backpack I decide to send home maps and guides no longer needed. The Peipin post office is closed on Wednesday, the one in Aubignosc does not open before 09:00, while in Château-Arnoux it closes at 11:30, and there is no office in l'Escale! When are those postmen working, if ever!

The first trail in the "terres noires" is interesting, they are sedimentary rocks resembling black crushed slate on which some vegetation grows, making for a nice contrast between the green of the vegetation and the dark black of the soil.  Interesting and fun for mountain biking, good traction and fun to ride.

Colours, colours, colours!

And more!

After l' Escale an easy climb through "foret des pénitents" and down to Mirabeau and Mallemoisson. 

Picnic (with Lindt chocolate)

Hotel Mirabeau is a "non hotel" no charm, close to the road, and at dinner about a dozen persons each sitting alone at a table, not a very exciting evening!  In any case I go to bed early to get ready for an early start tomorrow.

September 27: Mallemoisson to la Clappe (42 km, D+ 1550 m)

I recognize the route we had taken during our ride in this area in 2010 with Mike, Thom and Georg. Nice to be in familiar territory!

 Follows a difficult climb on a narrow and sometimes steep track to "hautes baties de Cousson" ruins where I eat my picnic next a fountain.  

Rocky trails

More rocks!

 A regular and long climb to "pas Entrages"(elev. 1213 m). There I meet a Swiss hiker with whom I share some chocolate since today is his birthday.  He is also heading to gite de la Clappe for the evening.  He will be the last hiker I meet during the full trip, except for the MTBer I met after Manosque I did not see a single other person on the trail.

This is "terres noires" territory, a paradise for MTBers but I have to keep careful and no take too many risks, a bad fall could spell disaster since I am alone. Nevertheless, the scenery is beautiful, weather is good and it is all downhill to gite de la Clappe (tel. 04 9235 3693).

Trail through terres noires

Terres noires

And again!

On the way to gite de la Clappe.

Very nice owners, a room to myself, a good dinner with birthday cake for the Swiss hiker, a welcome change from the previous evening, what more could I ask for?

September 28: la Clappe to Tartonne (36 km, D+ 1280)

Fun ride through pine forest to Vaumet, where they are digging a trench in the middle of the road to install a water pipe.  The dirt they have excavated is soft and not ideal for riding a bicycle, whether an MTB or not!  Fortunately after 3 km the work ends and I am back on a decent road.

Better not put your wheels in the trench.

A few seconds of inattention and I fall off fortunately without any injuries to bike or riders.  And then a few meters further I have my first flat.  I fix it on the road and am glad to see the new double action pump works very well.

The climb to "col de Cine" is long and monotonous but not really difficult and I enjoy the sun and the scenery.

Les terres noires

Trail through les terres noires

Nice patterns

Again.

Last one!

The descent to "clue de la Peine" on the other hand is steep, technical and dangerous with landslides, and I end up doing quite a bit of walking, which no as bad as it sounds since it stretches the muscles and eliminates cramps.

The "clue de la Peine" is a tunnel a few meters long, dug by hand at the end of the 19th century, the site is impressive: a narrow passage with a small river at the bottom.

Clue de la Peine

A bit of history

Rock formation at clue de la Peine

Thereafter the ride to gite des Robines in Tartonne is pleasant if stony. The owner of the gite loans me a water hose to clean the bike who is really being baptized" in mud. Quiet evening as I am the only guest with a good and abundant dinner.

September 29. Tartonne to St. André-les-Alpes (49 km, D+ 1450m)

Ominous skies and a bad forecast for the day, better keep moving quickly and fast while the going is good.  It did not last and 30 minutes later a drizzle starts, just as I start going up, it will make for a damp ride: sweat under the jacket, rain outside!

The climb to "col du Defens" is on an asphalt road and under continuing drizzle.  I pass by an egg-shaped rock structure created by Andy Goldsworthy.   

Sculpture by Andy Goldsworthy.

At the col the rain stops and there is a nice section, with interesting single tracks.  After Col de la Seoune a very steep but manageable (just!) downhill track brings me to La Batie and Chateau Garnier.   

Nice single track.

 There I blindly follow the signs without looking at the map, and instead of an easy ride on the road to reach Thorame-Basse I end up on a lousy (to use a correct word!) track just to avoid taking the road: why don't they use road instead of crappy tracks when possible????

I stop at the "café restaurant" in Thorame to order a sandwich and taste a "Cordeil" the locally brewed beer. I get out of the restaurant exactly as a shower pours down tons of water, and I end up eating my sandwich under the awning of the café.  As soon as the rain stops I start the climb to "plan de Layon" and "montagne de Maurel" under heavy skies, no doubt I'll get soaked again this afternoon!  Sure enough a storm breaks out before I reach  "tete d'Angely" with thunder, lightnings and heavy rain.  The barren top of a mountain is NOT the place to be caught in such a storm and I take a fire track down to the valley and to St André-les-Alpes.  The track is soaked and water is pouring out of every gulley. MY rain gear is performing well under these difficult conditions but I a cold.  As I arrive at the gite "l'arc-en-ciel" (nice name under the circumstances), the storm ends and a magnificent rainbow appears, a good omen for to-morrow?

Storm clearing over St André-les-Alpes

 The gite (tel. 04 9289 0405) is very nice, they let me use the clothes-dryer to dry up my gear and serve a good fancy dinner.

September 30: St. André-les-Alpes to Castellane (24 km, D + 760)

This morning sunny and clear skies, however the forecast is for heavy rain starting around 15: 00, better not waste too much time and reach Castellane as early as possible. The track uphill is very pleasant and easy, I reach a place called "les granges", and ride on a technical single track down to Courchons, some sections are really technical and I end up doing them on foot, but there are very few of them.   

Typical trail

Technical? yes but manageable (just!)

Less manageable!

Nice downhill to Blaron and La Beaume with continuous views of lac de Castillon.  I pass the "city" of Mandarom an oriental philosophy sect with funny statues.  I follow the asphalt road to Castellane and end up the trip with a few kilometers on a very enjoyable single-track which brings me to "Castellane" road sign.

Buildings in Mandarom

Mandarom

Castellane, end of trip.

Comments and conclusions.

• Very scenic and well-marked routes. Too bad they are marked only in one direction!

• Paths often very rocky and sometimes very difficult but it turns out to have been an advantage as it gave me a chance to rest and relax muscles.

• At 4,5 kg a backpack is not too heavy and easier than panniers to manage in difficult places.

• 60 km and 1500 m of altitude gain are the maximum I should consider in a day, old age is settling in! Darn it (but that is still respectable)!

• Weather was mixed, would be better to go a week or two earlier.

• going with one or two others persons would be safer.

• A beautiful journey.