1995 - MTB Ventoux trip

Around Mt Ventoux
Derek and Jacques
October 1995





While Derek was sleeping/drinking/chasing stewardesses on a plane from Montréal to Paris, and later on a TGV (that stands for Trés Grande Vitesse, when not on strike), I was toiling on the hot Italian autostrade from Torraccia to Avignon.  By sheer luck, and fast driving we met at the right time and the right place.  Good omen for the trip.

Sunny weather, clear skies, from the train station in Avignon we could see the Mont Ventoux, that I had in mind to ascend on bike!

Decided to go to Beaumes-de-Venise to sleep and be ready for early start on Saturday morning.  I forgot a minor point; there was only one hotel in Beaumes and not all that quiet-looking being at  the intersection of two major roads.  Unanimously decided to look somewhere else and went to Vacqueyras, and then to Gigondas, the next villages about 10 km away, both famous for their wines (all along I knew we would find a hotel in the wine district!).  We found hotel Les Florets (04-9065 8501), 3 km from Gigondas. The place had only two small rooms without shower but better than a floor.  Had a beginning-of-trip drink on the terrace under "les platanes" and started one of my numerous discussions (chats) with the local cops who were complaining about their old car but otherwise thoroughly delighted by their easy work.  Good diner with wine and early to bed.


Saturday September 30, 1995

We woke up to sunshine and coolish temperature due to a strong mistral. Bike preparation, packing (lightly or so we thought until we started pedaling uphill!) start-up photos and GO. Immediately realised that brakes don’t work quite as well on a loaded bike as on an empty one.

Road along Dentelles-de-Montmirail was asphalted only for 1 or 2 kms and then turned to gravel with a definite upward slant.  Landscape was great with road meandering across vineyards.  The maps not being quite precise enough we had to bushwhack with loaded bikes in a small gutted path across gullies, not the most pleasant or easy way to cycle, until we reached the telecommunication antenna, the highest elevation of the day.  Once there, we discovered we could have avoided all the bushwhacking by staying on the road for a few hundred meters more....  A chocolate bar put some energy (and calories) in our systems which were by then sweating profusely.

Great slow descent among forests to Crestet, an old restored village which used to be the summer residence of the bishop from Vaison-la-romaine.  Walked in the cobbled stone streets and enjoyed the view over the vallée du Rhone and the Ventoux.  This Ventoux is going to be a recurring theme in our trip, especially since we did not manage to reach its top!!!

Down into the valley, cycled along the Ouvèze river on an old abandoned (thanks we did not get hit by a steam engine) RR track.  The big advantage is that R.R. tracks are mostly flat.  Saw some funny shape rock formations completely eroded and discussed geology aspects of the area (Derek as teacher and me as interrogator to check his knowledge).  Lunch at a bar in Mollans-sur-Ouvèze, a city that was obviously a gateway to somewhere (great looking stone gates on each side of the bridge), but to where? the other side of the river?  We’ll never know! {24 km done so far}. Continued along the Ouvèze river on the R.R. track, saw some great castle on a ledge, apparently owned by some Germans, and reached Pierrelongue a strange church built on a rock standing by itself in the middle of the valley.   Next attraction was an old R.R. tunnel which had been converted into a wine cellar, of significance is the fact we did not even ask to visit it since we knew we would have to carry any purchased wine for a week on our bikes!
We arrived in Buis-les-Baronnies, {total for the day 38 kms} and found Hotel-sous-l’Olivier (04-7528 0104) at the edge of the river (280 FFR for modern room with bath).  We checked also hotel du Lion d’Or, pretty decrepit place, the business card I took shows an absolutely beautiful picture of a stone house and a garden, nothing to do with the reality!  Diner au Four-a-Pain restaurant (04-7528 1034) in Buis-les-Baronnies, naturally with local wine.  Great night, I woke up around 3-4 o’clock, looked by the window and saw more stars than I recall ever seeing.  Explanation came next morning when mistral was still blowing, very cool temperature and clear skies of course. 



Sunday October 01, 1995

At breakfast we met a funny retired general and his wife who spend their time hiking, and taking notes of everything from temperature of the streams they cross to the mushrooms they see; they mentioned a good interesting book on the region called  “Les Baronnies” de Patrick Olivier Elliott (good French name) Editions Aubanel.

After consultations with the general and the hotel owner decided to go up the Vallée-de-St Jar though the only way out of the valley would be through a difficult path.  Passed La Roche-sur-le-Buis, locally “famous” for a rock over the village held by wire and threatening to come crashing down. Poët-en-Percip was the end of the valley with great views over the road we had just taken and lavender fields. {9 kms}.

From Poët-en-Percip, a flat forestry road brought us to the path that would get us out of the valley, it looked somewhat more rugged and challenging than what we had done so far..... No chance to ride on this very narrow trail along the edge of the cliffs and we had to walk our bikes, sliding down and swearing (not to say sweating) profusely.  My note book shows a short sentence from Derek: “Some things never change”, followed a few minutes later by another statement: “trip from hell!" In short, challenging but once would be enough!!! That was only the beginning, since we then took a wrong path and ended up on a very narrow trail, obviously not intended for bikes and got scratched and eaten by bugs, mosquitoes and black flies, in short a lousy trail.  Since even good things have to end we did reach a good path which took us past Vegol and Bouesse-du-Bellon, a group of houses lost in the mountains with fantastic views.  Down, and then up of course, the asphalt road to Aulan, a castle still inhabited by its owners, not open to visitors at the time of our trip (siesta). No restaurant, of course! Thus a quick decision to glide downhill to Montbrun-les-bains, where Hotel des Voyageurs (tel. 04-7528 8110, 120 FFR with bathroom) provided a late lunch (lapin de Garenne en civet and wine for me, while Derek concentrated on his Orangina and camembert sandwich! I think it was time he came to France to improve his gastronomic tastes!) and rooms for the night. Dinner was French fries and steak au café du coin, while a loud and obnoxious American female tried to buy the diving equipment of the husband of the patronne.  Of course the whole café was laughing about it after her departure.  {Total for the day 39 kms}



Monday October 02, 1995

To-day we leave the packs in the hotel since we make a round trip.  In a typical fashion we back-tracked yesterday’s route to Aulan and to Col d’ Aulan (elev. 845 m) nice view of Mont Ventoux, with the mistral still with us we had cold temperatures, Derek’s glasses were all fogged-up as was my map holder.  Since there was only one road we could not get lost and thus enjoyed the vistas and the lavender fields without having to look at the map continuously.  Passed through Pierrelet and onwards to Col-de-Rousse on a new gravel road with a steep incline, more walking for Derek!  Saw some French farmers at work harvesting pears: after collecting about 20 pears they decided to take a break and wait for the rest to fall down; I am quoting their exact words: “Work is tiresome, why rush?  Let's have a glass of wine while we wait in the shade!” After 5 minutes chit-chat we left them to their waiting!

Took a succession of perfect mountain bike roads across fields and forests, exactly what tourist bureau pictures would show for a bike trip. The dirt road ended up at Chapelle-de-St Cosme among fields and mountains without much human presence.  {17 kms from Montbrun}

An asphalt and FLAT road took us to Sederon, a village without much interest where we had lunch in the restaurant of a condominium village.  Skies started to cloud over and this helped us on the slow uphill (after lunch remember!) to col-de-Macuegne, from where we could see a valley stretching for kms past Montbrun.  Big rock formations offered great platform to take photos, plus a nice rocky promontory in the middle of the valley.  Questions for Derek: origins, type of rocks and geological history please!  This provided a great long downhill ride for a full 10 kms, paradise, a bit of sunshine would have been OK too. After collecting our bags (more difficult to pedal all of a sudden!) we rode to col-des-Aires (640m elev.) from where we raced 6 ladies to our hotel in Brantes. Had a drink and got acquainted with the team of 6 female hikers. Took the time to watch Mont Ventoux, at least the supposed general area of the mountain since it was completely clouded-in and there was no chance to see anything at all.  Spent some time visiting Brantes, population must be about 50 bodies in full season!  We were told we should see the chateau de Brantes.  We did, one half is a ruin and the other has a vue imprenable sur le Mont Ventoux, when there are no clouds!!!.    We stayed in l’ Auberge (tel. 04-7528 0168, 150 FFR a night with shower in the room)  Diner in the hotel was local fare but certainly adequate. {Total for the day 49 kms, a record so far!}



Tuesday October 03, 1995

Went in the early morning for a walk, and heard deers calling in the hills across the hotel.  The forest on the Ventoux was planted under Napoleon (at the same time as Les Landes) and is now being replanted with pin noir. Met the owner of the castle, a Parisian guy whose grand father was building road and doing concrete works in Quebec.  His family is somewhat related to Giscard d’Estaing, the wife of whom is the godmother of the village bells!  Strange inscription on monument aux morts guerre de 1914-1919, Derek and I thought it ended in 1918!

Fast ride down to the bottom of the valley and then to Les Bernards and onwards to Savoillan on a forest road with the deers calling each other. Nice.  Reached our decision point; either we chance it to le Ventoux hoping weather will clear, or we stay in the valley towards Sault.  A single look at the sky and the decision was taken: no Ventoux for us!  Went to Savoillan after a steep tricky gravel path (Betsy would have bitched like hell on that one!) and visited a Ferme Agricole specialised in lavender and honey.  To make lavender: collect lavender stems with the flowers, put in a digester, send vapour which will release essential oils in gaseous form, then in distillation tower which condenses gases and produce liquid.  Smelled a few samples of lavender and graduated to honey. Derek bought a sample to balance his load on the bike.  I suggested we eat it right then, but no go!  We looked for a dirt trail to avoid the main road, but could not find any and took the asphalt road to Reilhanette.  From there long slow hill to Aurel {15 kms, 1.1/4 hr: we are getting better!).  To recover we had lunch in relais du Mont Ventoux, still in the clouds, good grits for 85 FFR.  Flat road (by then we were at 1000 m elevation) to Sault {5 kms in 30 mn.} where I got a tooth problem fixed.  Decided to luxuriate and rented rooms with bathtub, shower etc.. at hotel le Louvre (tel. 04-9064 0888, 320 FFR 1/2 pension).  Overall an easy day, even though I was disappointed (and Derek was relieved) not to have “done” le Ventoux.  Sault is an interesting (to visit) little country centre, with an old district quite pleasant, plenty of food stores, boulangerie, charcuterie etc...  Along the road in the city, saw this magnificent villa (it WAS at a time magnificent, now a bit dilapidated) where the ground floor was used as a bike garage, where they did rent bicycles.  Next trip! Saw stone workers (compagnons du devoir) repairing the church steeple (13th century). Good diner with local wine. {20 km for the day}.



Wednesday October 04, 1995

Still cloudy, still no view of Ventoux!  Sault is located on a high plateau which makes for great biking on flat, small roads on which there is virtually no traffic. Good place.  Went across plateau among farmhouses and reached Bonnieux. A great little village, with a shadowy place with good looking restaurant “Les lavandes” which rents room, worth another trip.  Slow climb up the route de la Nesque until we reached the Belvedere and view of Rocher du Cire (elev. 720 m) then 20 km in the Gorges de la Nesque, beautiful limestone formations all the way while going downhill, HAPPINESS!!!.  Saw some athletic French bike riders who passed us as if we were stopped. Then while admiring the view saw a bunch of Germans on an organised bike trip, with repair and luggage truck waiting for them at top of hill to provide refreshments and repairs. Sounded luxurious, but riders not very communicative or friendly. After 31.5 km in 3 hrs we arrived in Villes-sur-Auzon at the end of these gorges, where all restaurants and bars were closed, rushed to an epicerie and bought the makings of a picnic (paté, wine, cakes and other goodies) which we had on a bench under platanes trees watching non-existent traffic in the city.  Funny town this Villes-sur-Auzon with a circular wall and a narrow street all the way around it.  Saw a strange church with “République Francaise: Liberté, Egalité, Fraternité” on the frontispiece, so much for separation of church and state!  Must be a souvenir from the third République.

Up Combe-de-Sault to les Tourettes across vineyards, good biking area on the way to Bedoin.  A trench about 6-8 feet deep cut right through the dirt road we were planning to take.  We were not to be stopped by this minor obstacle and saw the look of surprise of the back-hoe operator when he saw us come out of the trench on the other side!  This crossing did not do us much good since we got lost in the fields shortly thereafter.  Found our way (so to speak!) to St Pierre-de-Vassols then to Caromb and to le Barroux, our objective {29 km in 3 hrs}.  Stayed in hotel "Les Geraniums"quite pleasant (tel. 04-9062 4108, 320 FFR 1/2 pension). My room, number 23, had a nice view of the valley (there is another hotel called le Miramar not quite as good in Caromb nearby). {Daily total 61 km}



Thursday October 05, 1995

Still cloudy and grey.  Good night rest in this comfy hotel. Programme for the day was to ride around and come back to le Barroux. An easy day in other words!  However the skies looked a darker shade of grey and we decided to take rainwear, just in case.
 Went to Caromb through country roads, then to Crillon-le-Brave (named after a sea captain under Henri IV) through vineyards. Ideal set up for biking: flatish road, no traffic whatsoever and some clouds to prevent overheating!  Took a look inside the "hotellerie de Crillon-le-Brave"(750-1500 FFR) got snubbed by the reception girl on account of our suits and ties (or lack of!) and were not impressed.  While looking at the view we were told by a local that they don’t like the hotel since it attracts rich clients and brings all sorts of petty thievery and car break-ins.

Back in vineyards to join the Malaucene-Bedouin road. Same nice roads as earlier, we saw sand quarry of a beautiful ochre colour, where they extract the sand used for the fabrication of Perrier (the water not the Champagne) bottles.  The clouds looked a bit closer and darker than earlier when we started from le Barroux.  While on the way to Malaucene, lightning, thunder and first drops of rain appeared; I quickly put on a raincoat while Derek decided to toughen it out.  Five kms later it was not rain anymore but a deluge. Rode in that storm, got thoroughly wet and I heard Derek shouting at the top of his lungs “ we are all going to die..." a normal statement considering we could not even see anything in front of us; at least it did wash the bikes, by luck car traffic had completely stopped.  We found a small pizzeria in Malaucene, where some other wet cyclists were eating. We joined them and discovered they were the ones who passed us so fast in Gorges de la Nesque!  They were down from mont Ventoux and told us of the fog, hail, cold, wind etc.. they had encountered, not the place to be!  Back to the hotel Geraniums in le Barroux for hot shower and beers. Slow relax afternoon since it kept raining. {32 kms to day}



Friday October 06, 1995

For our last day of cycling, rain and fog greeted us in the morning.  Took the road to Cirque-de-St-Amand, then missed a turn and ended up on a mud track going UP (again!!!).  The clay was well dampened from the rain which made a perfect slide, and we had a hell of a time going up, even on foot our shoes kept slipping back, mud everywhere: wheels, gears, brakes etc.., blocking the wheels, perfect conditions in other words!  Once we were on the hard road things got better in terms of traction, but the mud we had collected on the track started flying all over us. Thorough spray job!  We stopped in a cafe along the road in Suzette, borrowed their hose and hosed bikes and riders.
We climbed back to the antenne de communications des dentelles-de-Montmirail, and went down on same road as on the previous Saturday, towards Crestet.
Turned towards Seguret, weather was improving since the rain stopped and we could enjoy a long downhill through more vineyards, with good view of dentelles-de-Montmirail.  Arrived in Seguret {22 kms 2.5 hrs} where we had smoked meat sandwiches in café des lanternesSeguret is a really nice village, all of old stone and narrow streets, great in the low season, but you could imagine it in summer with mobs of tourists and absolutely unbearable.  Fortunately cars are not allowed in the village, for the simple reason that they could not go through the streets.  On the plaza we saw interesting trees forming a pergola with their branches completely welded together to such an extent that we could not tell which branch belonged to which trunk, absolutely impossible.  Passed through Sablet, Pas de l’Aigle (Dufresne), where a farmer was raising geese and ostriches and goats.  Another muddy slippery trail where one of the turkey chased Derek up the hill.  Impression of déja-vu with mud all over etc.. see paragraph above!  But this was not a problem since 5 kms later we arrived at hotel des Florets for photo finish, beers, showers for bikes and riders etc...  {from Seguret 10 ks 1 1/2 hr, total for the day 32 km}

Since it was still early afternoon, decided to explore the region by car and visit the vineyards including one belonging to the owner of the hotel.  Tested the brew and bought some for memories.  I might add that I opened a bottle just before Xmas 1995 and it was not all that good!



Conclusions:

A fine trip with complete understanding between Derek and I.  No arguments, good company. We had agreed at the beginning that it was not be a physical achievement and that we would take it easy, enjoy the landscape, the hotels, the food, the wine and the ride.  We did.  As a result I did not loose a single kilo. 
Average distance was some 55 kilometres daily (about 4-5 hrs) which is fine, with a total for the 7 days of 403 kms, of course some days were a bit more strenuous than others.  Bikes were superb except in the muddy, slippery, wet clay tracks, but that is normal.  Next time I would take even fewer clothing, but a waterproof pair of pants.  I would also get small-scale map right away. 1/25,000 is quite detailed enough; a 1/50,000 would be good enough and cover more area but would not provide detail of small tracks
If I were to do it again I would do it a week or two earlier to avoid rainy season, but this is not the type of area to go riding in full summer

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