2014 - Comment devenir un "hero" (Sellaronda 2014)



2014 - Comment devenir un "hero"  (Sellaronda 2014)





La Sellaronda Hero est une des plus belle (elle se déroule autour du massif de la Sella dans les dolomites italiennes) et des plus difficiles course (85 km et 4500 m de dénivelé positif)  au monde.  Plus de 4000 participants viennent y chercher un défi et l'opportunité de devenir "hero"  en finissant la course dans les temps impartis. 

Voici le récit de ma participation et comment j'ai survécu pour la raconter.


Préparations

Tout d'abord il faut un VTT pour participer!
Apres de nombreuses heures passées à étudier les caractéristiques de différents modèles mon choix s'est porté sur un VTT à double suspension en fibre de carbone  modèle "AMS 100 Super HPC SL 26" produit par la compagnie allemande "Cube".  La raison principale de ce choix fut la couleur du vélo: bleu-blanc-rouge, choix obligatoire pour un parisien né le 14 juillet.

Un simple regard sur cette merveille suffit pour me faire comprendre que je ne saurais utiliser plus de 10 % de son  potentiel, confirmant le dicton: " meilleur est le vélo, pire est le cycliste". Quelques ajustements étaient nécessaires:
- Les freins à disques hydrauliques originaux  "Formula R1" étaient tellement puissants qu'à chaque coup de frein je volais par-dessus le guidon pour embrasser l'herbe.  Apres des fortunes dépensées en frais médicaux je mis des "shimano XT"  grâce auxquels je pouvais freiner tout en restant en selle.  Mais je venais d'ajouter 150 grammes au vélo.
- Les pneus d'origine  étaient super légers avec une attraction fatale pour les cailloux pointus et autres objets perforants.  Fatigué de changer les pneus dans la boue je montais des pneus sans chambres plus lourds mais surtout plus résistants, ce qui ajoute 450 grammes.
- Je changeais les pédales originales pour des pédales "plateformes" ayant une excellente grip pour des chaussures normales, seul défaut est qu'elles font un mal de chien quand elles cognent les tibias.
- Les selles légères sont.....légères  c'est dire sans rembourrage où j'en ai besoin.  Pour conserver mes chances de  procréer je montais une selle confortable (Proust) mais plus lourde, un autre 500 grammes de plus pour le vélo.

Apres ces petites modifications le vélo etait passé de 11 à 13 kg, mais j'avais maintenant une chance de l'utiliser à 15 % de son potentiel.



Support financier (sponsoring)

J'avais toujours cru comprendre qu'une compagnie vous donnait de l'argent pour arborer son nom ou son logo sur les vêtements, mais les compagnies dont les noms apparaissent sur mon maillot ont une compréhension tres différente du sponsoring qui exclut tout don d'argent.  En fait c'est moi qui commandite différentes compagnies de matériel cycliste en achetant leurs produits; bien que certainement altruiste et bon pour l'économie locale ça n'arrange pas mon portefeuille.

(Au cas ou un sponsor souhaiterait faire une donation, si possible généreuse, je fournirais avec plaisir mes coordonnées bancaires)



Entrainement

Tres simple: sans entrainement sérieux, pas de héros!

L'entrainement commence dès l'automne et continue jusqu'à la veille de la course.  Il convient de pédaler sur tous types de terrains dans toutes les conditions atmosphériques et sur des distances et des dénivelés de plus en plus difficiles.  Mon ami VTTiste "maxbab" avait sélectionné des itinéraires d'entrainement sur lesquels nous passions plusieurs heures, lui devant sans efforts apparents et moi derrière aveuglé par la sueur qui me coulait du front.  Mais l'entrainement le plus utile fut de marcher de longues heures en poussant le VTT, ce qui s'avèrera représenter le plus fidèlement les conditions de la course.




Veille de la course

Conduire à Selva val Gardena sur les autoroutes italiens bondés où les conducteurs italiens donnent libre cours à leur style de conduite pour le moins "créatif" est un bon avant gout de ce qui m'attend durant la course où les italiens sont en très grande majorité et n'hésitent pas à piloter leur vélo d'une façon souvent fantaisiste et somme toute assez ressemblante a leur conduite automobile.

L’inscription est si efficace que l'on a à peine le temps d'admirer les jolies hôtesses qu'en quelques minutes vous avez votre dossard et un beau paquet cadeau.  L'organisation est excellente avant, pendant, et après la course toujours avec sourire et compétence.  Valgardena est un petit village de montagne tout décoré  à l'occasion de cette course.  Les compétiteurs tous en grande forme se promènent dans le village en plaisantant, mon bedon naissant et mes mollets maigrichons me semblent bien peu adaptés à ce qui nous attend demain.




La course

La ligne de départ traverse la rue principale où les 4000 coureurs sont divisés en grilles de départ.  J'aperçois mon ami "maxbab" et le rejoins sur sa grille pour un départ a 07:25.

La première montée (Dantercepies 750 m dénivelé sur moins de 6 km) fait la sélection entre les bons et les autres, et je commence à pousser le vélo ce qui me donne l'occasion d'admirer le paysage sous le soleil matinal. Excellent pour l'étirement des muscles mais pas tellement pour battre Mr Paez vainqueur des trois éditions précédentes de cette course.  La descente est fabuleuse sur une piste avec des tournants relevés et m’amène à Corvara premier point de restauration.

S'ensuivent les montées de Pralongia et Campolongo puis la descente sur Arabba deuxième point de restauration, où il convient de faire le plein de barres énergétiques et de boissons avant la célèbre et redoutable montée de l' Ornella, un des hauts lieux de la course.

Ornella est une dure et longue montée  (900 m de dénivelé sur 8 km) heureusement à l'ombre mais bien trop pentue pour moi. Nouvelle occasion de mettre en pratique mes heures d'entrainement à pousser le vélo!  La station de restauration serait la bienvenue si ce n'était pour voir une autre montée encore plus pentue, Sourasass, où tous les coureurs sont à pied en train de pousser leur vélo, ce que je me fais un devoir d'imiter.

Le "single" jusqu'au col du Pordoi fournit l'occasion de marcher dans la boue et la gadoue due aux névés qui fondent et de salir le vélo et le coureur.  Le passage au col aurait été encore plus apprécié si un des spectateurs s'etait abstenu de me dire que le vainqueur etait déjà arrivé alors que j'en suis à peine à mi-course.

Après Canazei la montée sur le Duron est bien longue et les jambes commencent à donner des signes tres nets de fatigue, heureusement je commence à croire que peut-être je serais capable de finir la course. Cependant il faut encore pousser  le vélo en compagnie d'autres coureurs qui ne sont pas en meilleure forme que moi.  Pour voir le coté positif de l'exercice je me dis que la marche fait de l'étirement sur les muscles et diminue l'usure des pignons.

La descente du Duron vers Selva Valgardena (l'arrivée) est  grandiose et la bière à l'arrivée absolument merveilleuse.

Mes amies les crampes se rappellent à mon bon souvenir dés que je commence à marcher vers l'hôtel et me tiendront compagnie toute la nuit.  Mais c'est fait et je suis un "hero".



(P.S: respectez votre grille de départ; bien que j'ai fini en plus de 11 heures je fus disqualifié pour etre parti avec mon ami "maxbab" et  non avec MA grille. Serais-je capable de refaire la course pour etre classé? )

temps de passage.



Jacques (jaclah@gmail.com)
octobre 2014

2014 - How to become a hero (Sellaronda 2014)




How to become a hero (Sellaronda 2014)


            The Sudtirol Sellaronda Hero is one of the most beautiful (taking place around the Sella range in the Italian dolomites) and most challenging mountain bike race (4500 m vertical climb over 85 km) in the world.  It attracts over 4000 participants looking for a personal challenge and hoping to become heroes by completing the race on time.

Here is the story of my attempt to complete and survive the race to tell about it.


Preparations:

First of all one need a mountain bike to participate in the event.
            After numerous hours of pondering the specs of various models my choice was based on colors more than anything else: blue white and red, a fitting choice for a Frenchman born on July 14th!  Just looking at it I knew I was never going to use more than 10 % of its potential, confirming the saying: "the better the bike, the worse the rider".
            I had to make a few adjustments to feel comfortable with it:
- Its Formula R1 hydraulic disk brakes were so efficient that I flew over the handlebar each time I used them.  After spending more money on doctor visits and medical supplies than on the bike, I decided to replace them with "softer" brakes, which would let me stay on the bike even when braking hard.
- It came with lightweight competition tires, with a distinct affinity for perforating objects on the ground, fed up with changing tubes and tires in the mud I opted for stronger reinforce heavy-duty tires.
-  Wanting to "bail out" quickly when loosing control I did not want clip-on pedal and mounted a set of wide platform pedals with pins for good grip on the shoes, only default is that it hurts like hell when it hits you on the shins.  To go with these pedals I wear a pair of comfortable hiking shoes.
- Lightweight saddles are .........   lightweight, meaning not much padding where it counts, for the sake of keeping a chance to have a progeny I mounted a comfortable but heavy saddle.
            Those "minor" modifications and a complete set of tools brought the weight from the original 11,4 kg to 13kg but on the positive side I was now able to use about 15% of the potential of the bike!!



Sponsoring

            My understanding of sponsoring is that a company will give you money to display its name or logo on your clothing, but the companies whose names figures prominently on my jersey appear to have a different definition that excludes cash outlay. 
            So far I am the one to sponsor companies by buying their biking wares.  Though certainly altruistic and good for the local economy it does not help my wallet.

(P.S: my bank account number is available upon request to eventual parties wanting to sponsor my biking activities.)



Training

Very simple: no training, no heroes!
            Training starts in the fall and goes on until the week before the race.  It is done on all sorts of tracks, in all weather and on increasingly difficult distances and profiles.  My friend "maxbab" had mapped some challenging courses where we kept training, he forging ahead without difficulties, me far behind trying to see him through the sweat dripping from my forehead. 
            But the most useful training I did in preparation for the Sellaronda was walking, preferably while pushing a mountain bike.  This is as close to real race conditions as I can think of.



The day before the race

            Driving to Selva Valgardena on crowded expressways where Italian drivers give free rein to their creative style of driving is a good preparation for the competitive spirit of the race itself.

            Registration is so efficient that one has hardly enough time to look at the pretty female staff and before you know it you have your bib and a generous race package.  The organization is excellent and all aspects of the race are handled with friendliness and efficiency.  Valgardena is a pretty village decked with festive decorations for this major local event. The town is teeming with lithe male and female bodies strolling good humorly in the village. My not so flat belly and spindly legs look definitively below standard.


The race

            The starting line stretches over Main Street with the 4000 participants divided in starting grids.  I spot my friend "maxbab" and jump over the fence to join him in his grid. 

            The first hill separates immediately the good from the not so good, and I join a few others in practicing walking next to my bike admiring the stunning landscape under the early sunshine. Good for stretching muscles but not so for winning the race ahead of Mr. Paez winner of the three preceding editions of Sellaronda!  Down from Dantercepies Pass (2.298 m) the trail is a succession of banked curves thoroughly enjoyable, bringing one to the first food station in Corvara.

            Up Pralongia and Campolongo pass then down to the next food station in Arabba.  Better stack up on energy bars and drinks since the mythical Ornella hill awaits.

            Ornella is a steep long hill fortunately under trees but unfortunately way too steep for me to ride uphill.  This is where my training sessions of walking while pushing my bike are demonstrating their usefulness.  The drink station at the end of this climb would be great if it were not for the sight of a long line of competitors pushing their bikes up another impossibly steep hill named Sourasass. 

            The single track to the Pordoi pass provides a unique opportunity to walk in the mud and slush from melting snow banks and to dirty one's bike, so grateful for my gore-tex waterproof hiking shoes.  It was cheering at the Pordoi pass to learn that the winner had already arrived a few minutes ago while I had hardly completed half of the course.

            After Canazei the climb to the Duron pass is another long hill where your legs are starting to show sign of fatigue but you start to realize you may just be able to complete the race.   Here is another occasion to push your bike in the company of other fellow racers not much better off than yourself, on the plus side it reduces wear and tear on your gears.

            Going down the Duron pass to Selva Valgardena is exhilarating and the beer at the finish line tastes just fantastic. 

            Your good friends the leg cramps start to remind you of their existence as soon as you walk to your hotel and will keep you company for most of the night.  But you have done it and became a "HERO".



(PS: respect your starting grid; though I finished in over 11 hours I was disqualified for joining my friend "maxbab" and not starting with MY grid. Oh well I'll have to try it again before my 73h birthday!)




my times over the race.



Jacques (jaclah@gmail.com)
October 2014








2014 - Come diventare un hero (sellaronda 2014)




2014 - Come diventare un hero (sellaronda 2014)



La Sudtirol Sellaronda Hero e una delle più belle (si sviluppa intorno al massiccio della Sella nelle dolomiti italiane) e delle più dure (4500 m di dislivello su 85 km) gare di mountain bike nel mondo.  Ci sono oltre 4000 partecipanti che provano a finire il percorso negli tempi per diventare "hero".

Ecco il racconto della mia prova a finire e sopravvivere la gara.


Preparazione

Primo di tutto ci vuole una buona mountain bike; dopo tante consultazioni ho scelto la mia su base non tecniche ma cromatiche: azzurro, bianco e rosso, una scelta obbligatoria per un francese nato il 14 luglio.
Appena vista la bici mi sono accolto che era ben superiore alle mie competenze e che non riuscirei mai a usufruire più del 10 % del suo potenziale.
Per renderla più aggirabile faccio alcune modifiche:
-gli freni Formula R1 erano cosi forte che finissero a terra sopra il manubrio ogni volta che le usavo, adesso con freni più morbidi rimango in sella anche con frenaggi duri.
- le leggere coperture originali avevano un’attrazione fatale per chiodi e altre cose taglianti, causando frequenti forature spesso nel fango.  Stanco delle perdite di tempo ho montato gomme tubeless ad alta resistenza alla foratura.
- visto le mie competenze preferisco montare pedali piatti (platform pedals) che mi lascano saltare velocemente fuori della bici quando sto per cadere. Unico problema e quando i pedali girano a vuoto e fanno un mal di cane sulla tibia.
- le selle leggere sono ... leggere e non ammortizzano bene dove e importante se uno vuole mantenere le sue attività riproduttive.  Ho cambiato per qualcosa di più confortevole.
Con questi "miglioramenti" la bici avvicina i 13 kg, pero forse si potrebbe usufruire quasi il 15 % del potenziale.



Sponsoring

Per me, uno sponsor e qualcuno che disborsi sommi (magari importante) per aiutare amatori a praticare il loro sport, in cambio di esporre loro logos e nome sulla maglietta.  Invece le ditte che hanno i loro nomi sulla mia maglietta hanno una definizione molto diversa che non include il versamento di soldi.

Infatti, sono io che sponsorizzo tante dite comprando i loro articoli per bici, lo che aiuta l'economia locale ma non mio portafoglio.

(PS su richiesto può dare il mio numero di cc per chi vorrebbe contribuire alle mie attività cicliste.)



Allenamento

Semplicissimo: no allenamento no heroe!
L'allenamento comincia nel autunno e continua fino alla settima precedente la gara. Si deve andare su tutti i tipi di percorso in tutte condizioni climatiche.  Il mio amico "maxbab" aveva riconosciuto diversi percorsi per le nostre passeggiate, lui davanti senza difficoltà, io dietro coperto di sudore appena capace seguirlo.
Pero l'allenamento il più utile fu andare a piedi con la bici in mano. Era l'allenamento il più simile alla gara.



Il giorno prima della gara

Guidare a Selva Valgardena sulle autostrade italiane dove gli autisti interpretano al loro modo creativo il codice stradale e un’ottima introduzione alla competitività della gara stesa.
L’iscrizione e tanta efficace che non ho avuto il tempo di chiacchierare con le belle signorine dell'organisazione; in meno di cinque minuti uno prende il suo pettorale e il generoso pacco gara. Prima e durante la gara l'organisazione e ottima.
Selva Valgardena e molto spettacolare tutto decorato per questo evento importantissimo per la citta, dappertutto camminano i competitori tutti magri e muscolatissimi, mi sento poco presentabile con la pancia abbondante e le gambe magre.



La gara

La gara parte dalla via principale, dove i 4000 concorrenti sono divisi in griglie di partenza.  Vedo il mio amico "maxbab" e salto la barriera per partire con sua griglia. 

La prima salita fa la selezione subito, con quelli bravi che salgono senza sforzi apparenti, e gli altri come me che cominciano a spingere la bici a piedi, ma che ne approfittano per godersi il panorama di questa bellissima mattinata.  Va bene per fare lo stretching delle gambe ma non tanto bene per provare a finire primo del Sig. Paez, vincitore tre volte successive della Sellaronda.  La discesa del Dentercepies (2298 m s.l.m.) e ottima con serie de curve rialzate per portare al primo rifornimento di Corvara.

Si sale a Pralongia e Campolongo e si scende fino a Arabba per il secondo rifornimento, dove e consigliabile fare il pieno di barre energetiche e liquidi prima di attaccare la mitica salita dell’Ornella.

L’Ornella e una tosta lunga ripida salita fortunatamente all’ombra, ma dove sono incapace rimanere in sella.  Adesso comincio a vedere l'utilità de tutto l'allenamento che ho fatto spingendo la bici a piedi.  Il rifornimento alla fine dell’Ornella sarebbe bello se non per la vista che ci aspetta: delle lunghe fila di ciclisti tutti a piedi su una pista cementata quasi verticale che porta al Sourasass.

Il singletrack fino al Pordoi da l’opportunità di andare a piedi e di sporcare bene la bici con il fango che risulta dal scioglimento de alcuni nevati.  Ottime le mie gore-tex scarpe di trekking in questo passaggio.  Al arrivo al Pordoi rimasto sconvolto di apprendere che il vincitore era già arrivato quando sto appena a meta gara.

Dopo Canazei comincia un’altra lunga salita, dove le gambe cominciano a dare distinti segnali di stanchezza pero, si comincia a pensare che forse finiremo la gara nei tempi.  Ancora un’occasione de spingere la bici a piedi e di fare compagnia agli concorrenti del mio livello.

La discesa del Duron a Selva Valgardena e esilarante come la birra una volta attraversata la finish line.

I crampi cominciano subito quando se scende di bici e se comincia a camminare verso l'albergo, ci fanno compagnia tutta la notte.  Ma che importanza, adesso lei e un "HERO"


(PS: meglio rispettare la sua griglia di partenza, ho finito in più di undici ore pero sono stato squalificato per essere partito con mio amico "maxbab", e non con la mia griglia.  Bah! Forse saro capace rifarla per essere classificato).

miei tempi di passagio.



Jacques (jaclah@gmail.com) 

ottobre 2014

Taisa's wedding in denver and trip west - may 2014











We did not want to miss Taisa's wedding in Denver as it was a great opportunity to see the family and we decided to accept Arvid's and Helen's invitation to see them in grand junction.

The trip was purely family and tourism, no mountain biking, serious hiking kayaking, rafting or whatever, that would be for a next trip organized a bit more leisurely (we only went for 8 days!)

This blog is only an excuse to include some pictures from the stunning landscapes one sees out west. The scale is enormous, rock formation, rivers, road desert, colors, everything is BIG.


Downtown Denver has some interesting wall paintings  related to the west






funny robot for a sushi restaurant

clifford still museum pub





strange advertisement (note spelling!)

Go west young man!

horsing and boxing





banjo player

Driving from Denver to Grand Junction is 400 km or 4 hours of easy relaxing driving on the wide US roads.  Coming out of Denver one starts climbing to finally reach the Eisenhower tunnel at 3400 m   

 Loveland pass at 4000 m
Glenwood springs
Breckenridge and Silverthorne where Rémi spent a year.
Good lunch in..... where they had a funny bike repairs station, quite a sharp design, and an idea to be copied may-be.



bike repairs station

on the way to grand junction along the colorado river

mesa when arriving in grand junction

the mesa again


walks in monument park, in arches national park


 
diamond shape shade

jacques helen and arvid

nature's balancing act

the girls towards the monument

shapes and colors!

the monument

the  monument

helen, bets and sue

typical landscape

colors and blue skies

only tough vegetation survives

rocks

erosion

erosion





There is a mica mine near grand junction, now abandonned but a good hiking trip


on the way to mica mine

towards the mine

mica formation

mica formation

mica formation

mica formation


A great trip with fantastic landscapes and the occasion to see the west as I always dreamed of seeing it.  There was some long drives, but that was compensated by the beauty of the land; it is also a real way to appreciate the hugeness of the country.

2014 - Kayaking archipelago della Maddalena, Sardinia








For my birthday betsy offered to go kayaking with me for a few days, my only work was to select the destination.

Looking at maps I saw two possibilities:
- islands in northern croatia close to Italy
- the maddalena archipelago north of sardinia.

Considering travel time, availability of shelters and beaches we decided on la maddalena.



Sunday night we stayed in camping "baia saraceno" just off Palau, which offered a good place to leave the car and to launch the kayaks since there was a kayak school on site.  One of the instructors looked familiar and it turned out to be emmanuele an old friend from my italian kayaking days!

Went for a stroll in Palau and tried restaurant "portichione" which was fine and not too touristy.  Walked around the harbor where there was an artists market, betsy made some pictures of funny rugs sticking out of the back of a truck.



Monday morning, grey skies, wind blowing at 15 knots and forcing and sea still reasonnably quiet.
We loaded as fast as possible, and after a few hesitations due to weather and betsy having a cold and not feeling too well, decided to take off.

We did the short crossing from palau to punta vela marina on isola san stefano under strong wind  and enjoyed kayaking in rada di santo stefano.

The crossing from  san stefano to the bridge between the islands of maddalena and caprera required some attention because of  sea and wind funneling in the narrow passage.  Things quieted down nicely once under the bridge and in the lee of the maddalena island.  Navigated past the abandonned club med village and its thatch roofed paillottes, along their beautiful beach which was quasi deserted.  Landed on a beach near  "testa di polpo" which to us looked more like "le lion de denfert" in Paris, for rest and lunch.
 Decided to keep going towards  porto massimo but with wind and waves dead in the nose stopped on a small beach on isola giardinelli, where we had nap, dinner with a nice bottle of rosso di montefalco (perticaia probably offered by Lars) to celebrate bastille day and my birthday, and to spend the nite

Tuesday 
Less wind, quieter sea and sunny, shouldbe a good day on a kayak.

We played among the rocks along the north east coast of maddalena until punta marginetto and crossed over to santa maria island  thru passo di barretitnelli and passo di santa maria; the wind had picked up somewhat and with the waves straight on the nose it took a long time for this 4 km crossing.  We arrived at cala santa maria a crowded beach with hundred of motorboats at anchor and decided to keep going until we found a nice empty beach near punta missoggio that we appropriated immediately.

A few minutes later a motorboat tried to come but seeing us went to a side beach, then another motorboat with a french family hesitated between "our " beach and another one next to it before opting for the "other" beach.  Heat was intense and we could not do anything until 15:00 but sit in the shade of a tree.   A leasurely ride along the coast and thru the passo degli asinelli until we found a nice empty beach on the western side of santa maria island.



Wednesday

Sunny and windy morning.

Betsy still not feeling too well with her cold, we decided we would go back to base and sleep at the camping grounds tonite and go back home on thursday, a day earlier than anticipated which would give more time to get o rganised in Torraccia before the arrival of guests on saturday.

We went back to cala santa maria beach to drop our garbage but not recipients, I asked  people on a commercila boat loading industrial garbage, like roofing material etc, where one could drop garbage and they said nowhere.  I kept asking what people do on the island for their garbage and they finally offfered to take it and dump it with the one they were loading.  Nice guys.

A quick stop to see spiaggia rosa, which is forbidden to boat, pedestrians, animals, in short "keep out".  A clean beach (how could it be otherwise with nobody allowed!) of white sand and transparent water, with some stripes of pink sand but not a pink beach really.

We crossed to spargi island, with waves and wind on the side, a bit unconfortable and had a rest in cala bonifazzinca, crowded with motor boats. Lunch on a small beach only accessible by kayaks near cala soraia and then crossed over to punta nido d'aquila. a nice ride with wind and waves in the back, not too many motorboat since it was lunchtime (14:00).

We found a bar on the beach of punta nido d'aquila where we had a most delicious beer and octopus salad.  being so close to the campsite and the wind and sea conditions being favorable we crossed straight to isolotto romano and to  palau.

Loading the kayak was fast and putting all the gear in the car even faster followed by a  fresh water shower  before dinner in the restaurant of the campsite.  the next morning ferry to civitavecchia and drive home: it was nice to sleep in a real bed....


kayaks loaded, ready to go.





in a truck

samples of mats

did she want me to buy a necklace?
rocks in Palau



and where are we?

got it!

first landing


nice beach


pretty kayaker bis

nap on the beach


rocks 1

rocks 2

rocks 3

rocks 4

rocks 5

rocks 6

beach again

rocks 7

rocks 8

rocks 9

rocks 10

rocks 11

first bivouac

la maddalena

birthday toast


spiaggia rosa (no access allowed)

isola santa maria in background


delicious beer and octopus salad

contrasts in colors

happy with a beer

colors colors colors......

rocks 12

rocks 13

it is a thumb up signal



newly painted deck of the ferry