2007 - Kayaking Around Elba

Kayaking Around Elba 
 June 2007

BPL and JCL

Foreword:

Before going on our Corsica adventure (July 12-25) we thought we had better practice rowing and camping out, so we would a)- be in better shape, and b)- get used to sleeping on beaches and getting up early. Going kayaking around Elba was a good program since it is not too far from Torraccia, it is not too big (100 km or so) and we had already been there with an organized Italian group. We knew there were many beaches and that we could do it on our own reasonably safely, plus conditions would be somewhat similar to Corsica.

Three and a half hours drive to Piombino (through tortuous roads in Etruscan territory) without too much traffic. On the ferry to Elba, we met another kayaker that I had met on the Discesa del Tevere in 2006 (Massimiliano Pierini, a magician) and chatted with him during the crossing and agreed to meet him at Isola Paolina on our last leg.




Day 1: 16 nautical miles (N.m.)

Tuesday morning we loaded the gear in the kayaks and left around 10:00. Wind was OK until punta Polveraia and then dead ahead  (SW 10-15 knots)! We stopped at 14:30 in spiaggia Ogliera close to a full contingent of bare Germans and rested for 1:30 hour.

Thereafter wind was favorable all the way to punta Bardella where we found a sheltered, if not beautiful, camp site. Arrival at 18:30.  
(16 miles in 7 hours of kayaking: 2.2 knots average)





Day 2: 16 N.m.

Wednesday morning was cloudy but with weak winds when we left at 08:00. We cut across all the bays until spiaggia dei Pareti south of Morcone where we arrived at 10:40.  Good rest and start again at 12:40. Stop over on a beach near Punta Rossa, past an old abandoned coal mine( Punta della Calamita) between 13:30 and 15:15. Kept going until Spiaggia Reale near an abandoned coal mine just east of Porto Azzuro. We arrived at 17:30 having enjoyed favorable wind most of the day. Had 1 (even 2) cold beers on the beach which tasted delicious.

Then we waited on the beach until the local restaurant served dinner and set up camp after sunset. Good campsite and easily felled asleep.
(16 miles in 6 hours: 2.6 knots average)




Day 3: 18 N.m.

Wind was definitively favorable SE 10-15 knots when we left at 08:00 and at 09:30 we reached Rio Marina (where the race during Elba Marathon started) where we replenished our groceries. Left at 10:00 under same wind conditions to reach Capo Vita at the extreme north of the island. Wind shifted and helped us all the way to spiaggia di Nisporto that we reached at 12:30. Nice rest on a deserted beach where we practised buiding shade shelter, worked OK except when wind picked up!

Left at 15:30 with a strong 15-20 knots South west wind dead ahead! Fought waves and wind until spiaggia de Zupignano where we rested for 30 minutes. Timed our crossing of the Portoferraio bay immediately after a ferry had departed and with favorable SE wind (5-10 k) were able to cross quickly without encountering ferries, that was lucky! All the beaches close to Portoferraio being crowded and close to civilization went as far as spiaggia Seccione, a bit narrow for comfort but we moved as high as possible, arriving at 18:30.  Betsy was pooped and glad to stop and and settled for the night. She decided that Corsica was NOT for her, too many miles and too early departures, I would do it alone with the French group.

(18 miles in 6:30 hours: 2.8 knots average)




Day 4: 8 N. m.

Left at 08:00 without much wind or waves and leisurely followed the coast past Capo d’Enfola, with nice rock formations. The wind picked up SW 5-15 knots with gusts, which slowed our progression due south across the bays. We landed at spiaggia Paolina at 10:30 and called Massimiliano who came to show us his boat with its homemade sail and rigging. Left at 12:00 and passed an Italian Navy boat on exercises with camouflaged guys riding full speed on landing crafts. Reached Marciana Marina at 12:30 where we saw Gaudenzio teaching paddling techniques to a friend. He offered us a fresh shower (much appreciated). We loaded gear in the car and went for a beach lunch with him, Luciano Belloni and Costantino Lifrieri ( a Sardinian I had met on a kayak adventure in Maddalena in 2004). Drove easily back to Torraccia where the sleeping in our bed felt oh SO good!
(8 miles in 3.3 hours: 2.4 knots average)



Total for the trip:
distance 56 miles in 24 hours or 2.3 knots average.