Via Francigena (Viterbo to Siena)

Jacques, may 25-28, 2017

While Betsy played music in Amsterdam I decided at the last moment to bike along the via francigena. It is a pilgrimage track going from the Grand st Bernard pass in the alps to Rome, similar to the Camino di Santiago in Spain. Most people do it on foot but there is a possibility to do it on a bike. For logistic reasons I opted for a start in Viterbo and would aim for Siena in 3-4 days.

I got some good info from the guidebook « guida alla via francigena in bicicletta » by Camilla Torelli 

 

 guide I used

and also for GPX tracks from: http://www.viefrancigene.org/en/resource/statictrack/category/francigena-bici/.

I took a very light backpack specially since the weather forecast was for excellent conditions if hot and since I would sleep in agriturismo or hotel.

Viterbo-Bolsena (35 km, D+ 500 m, 2hr 30): 

tracks gpx

Finding the track out of a city is always difficult in spite of the GPX. It took me 30 minutes to be on the right track and I was happily surprised to see it was following a dirt road. 

old cassia road

 It passed thru fields and followed the old roman road cassia antica. It was made of basalt stones still in good condition and it was interesting to be riding the same road as the romans over 2000 years later! Wide tires and good suspension helped! The trail became quite steep but the view of lago di Bolsena from the town of Montefiascone was impressive.

lago di bolsena from montefiascone

rocca dei papi montefiascone

they are not real!

I missed a turn and ended up riding on via Cassia all the way to Bolsena, instead of taking tracks thru the fields. It was easier and faster which was OK so I could find a hotel in Bolsena (hotel zodiaco, hotelzodiacobolsena.it, tel 0761 798791, very adequate and reasonable, abundant breakfast) Dinner at la tavernetta also good: fish meal with local white wine.

Highlights: roman road, views of lago di Bolsena from Montefiascone, Bolsena a relax city by the lake.

Bolsena-Radicofani (56 km, D+1200, 7 hr)

tracks GPX

Uphill out of Bolsena, to pass the castello with stunning views of the lake. 

the biker

leaving bolsena

 Dirt trail thru the fields, passing some agriturismo worth investigating: agriturismo borgo podernovo  and much more luxurious agriturismo poderaccio. Met a couple of french people who were completing the full via francigena starting from Briancon in France one month ago. After San Lorenzo Nuovo back thru potatoes fields crossing many hikers of all nationalities, a busy via this francigena! Passed Aquapendente but did not stop. Uphill to Proceno where I found a nice shady park where I had a picnic and a nap « only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun »! 

sta maria church before proceno

nice park to rest in proceno

Passed by  agriturismo Poggio Porsenna looking good and could see the castle of Radicofani in the distance and in spite of pedaling it did not seem to get any closer. 

far far away there is radicofani

Plenty of various signs for via francigena, hard to follow the right one.

the sign I followed most of the time

but there is this one

and that one

and 

the main sign

 Passed a nice place to stay: agriturismo passalacqua just before Gallina.  After a long ride on dirt roads and tracks (temperature 38°C and plenty of dust) I finally reached Radicofani, where I found a room chez l'habitant (affitacamere) and went to visit the castle which dominates the town. Great castle with exceptional views from the top of the tower.

castle of radicofani

view from the top of the tower

Had a beer at the bar by the entrance gate, there were all sorts of wines, such as Brunello di Montalcino and the like going back 30 years, for sale at reasonable prices. Good dinner and good night

Highlights: Radicofani visible from miles away, park in Proceno, long ride to Radicofani, castle in Radicofani, hot and dusty trail

Radicofani-Buonconvento (60 km, D+1100, 7 hr 30):
tracks GPX

Pleasant ride mostly downhill to Gallina. Started on asphalt road where there was a rally for vespa, which were passing me by the hundreds. After a few kilometers, I took the dirt trails which were quite pleasant in avoiding the via cassia. Agriturismo la pasciarella looked good, it may be worth worth checking out.  Attention:  one and a half kilometer after the agriturismo passalacquaand right by a farm the trail takes  off on the right thru the fields, do NOT stay on the gravel road as I did!.  Uphill under the sun to Castiglione d'Orcia and its castle, then downhill thru fields, where I was not sure I was on the via francigena, but in fact I was! Could see landscapes typical of crete senese, open fields without any trees, geometric patterns of tractors and harvesters tracks: beautiful. 

crete senese landscape

crete senese landscape

church in san quirico d'orcia

A hard uphill after Bagno Vignoni under full sunshine was very tiring as there was no shade whatsoever, more crete senese landscape. Stopped in San Quirico d'Orcia for a rest, a bite and a beer. Mostly downhill on asphalt to Torrenieri and back on dirt trails thru crete senese rolling to Buonconvento where I found a hotel (hotel Roma, in center, not great but adequate, better eat out than take ½ pension.)

crete senese landscape

crete senese landscape

crete senese landscape

crete senese landscape

crete senese landscape

crete senese landscape

Highlights: beautiful crete senese landscapes, not too difficult uphills, via francigena runs right along roads but separated by guard rail a great idea. The best section of the trip.

Buonconvento-Siena (35 km, D+ 500, 2hr30):
tracks GPX

I took off early to avoid full midday sun. Track after Ponte d'Arbia follows the railroad tracks so it is flat and easy to ride. Via francigena runs on dirt road or across fields so fairly dusty and no shade. More crete senese landscapes until Isola d'Arbia. The trail enters Siena thru the porta romana and brings you to the piazza del campo which end of the section of the via francigena. 

arriving

siena: porta romana

no doubts, this is siena.

After a tour of the piazza I went to the railway station to organize my trip back. Had to wait 2 hours in Siena station meeting and chatting with two men who had also done the trail helped in killing time. The 2 hours wait in Chiusi station was made bearable by the presence of a steam engine train doing the liaison Chiusi-Siena.

steam engine in chiusi

nice iron works

steam regulator?

Remi and his gang gave me a lift from Orte to home where we had shower, pizza and a good night rest.

Highlights: more crete senese, Siena visible in distance, riding in Siena on a bike, arrival in piazza del campo.

Conclusion:

there are MANY via francigena with plenty of signs going in different directions, one needs to identify his via and follow it carefully to avoid confusion.  The GPS was quite usefull for this purpose.  A good trip quite hot and dusty. May be easier to do following the normal direction (i.e. from North to South) so I could see the direction signs better, otherwise there is no problem doing it in either direction. Plenty of places to stay overnight even if quite crowded sometimes on the trail. An electric bike would be a good option.