Grande Traversée du Massif Central (GTMC)Volvic- Bagnols-les-bainsJacques solo, June 21-28, 2026
Grande Traversée du Massif Central (GTMC)
While Betsy was participating in a music seminar near Clermont-Ferrand, I decided to follow the trace of the GTMC between Volvic et Bagnols-les-bains, about 320 km and 6500 m vertical climb. Here is the gpx trace
https://www.la-gtmc.com/itineraire/grande-traversee-du-massif-central-a-vtt
for the full 1400 km itinerary, i only did the volvic to bagnols section
The main problem was going to be the weather, as France was experiencing a major heat wave with temperatures never seen. I was hoping that the few rides I had done before in hot Italian weather would be sufficient training to be able to complete the proposed itinerary.
Hot temperatures in plaine du Po: so we decided to avoid tunnel de Frejus but go via col du mont Cenis. Much cooler air and good sleeping temperature. We stayed at hotel gran scala, but a better choice would be hotel des roches blanches (+33 06 2062 6504) by the lake. Next morning we went for a walk along the lake.
Good drive to Volvic, where we visited the mine where they used to extract volcanic rock.
We stayed in l'orée des sources (+33 04 7338 9135) a modern hotel, right next to the GTMC tracks. The owner had some bike repair material among which a can of sealant, indispensable to fix a slow leak in my front tire.
Volvic-Orcival: 49 km, 1050 m D+, 38 degrees Celsius max
I asked Betsy to give me a ride to Charbonnieres, above Volvic, saving 6 km and 300 m climb but mostly allowing me to start 1 hour earlier and benefit from cool temperatures.
Pleasant ride in the shade all the way to Laschamps where I had lunch; I would have preferred a light sandwich but it was not an option: buffet or nothing.
There was a ford before Orcival which I tried to cross on the bike: bad idea, a rock stopped my front wheel and I had to finish crossing on foot. Wet shoes and sweaty socks don’t smell so good. I stayed in “le Cantou” where there were other cyclists: Stefania an Italian girl following the GTMC on a gravel bike, and Dennis and Pamela, an American couple, riding MTB on the GTMC.
Dinner with “truffade”, typical heavy regional dish of potatoes baked with cheese and bacon, not my favorite in this hot weather!
In fact a better bet would have been to stay in hotel Notre Dame (+33 04 7381 1853 or +33 06 3238 7926), where I stayed last time, and where the food is better.
Orcival-Besse: 44 km, 1160 m D+, 40 degrees Celsius max.
Tough climb right at the exit of Orcival, I did a fair bit of it on foot. Many roofs of "lauzes" the local stone to cover roofs, heavy but lasting forever.
While enjoying a bumpy ride after lac de Serviere, I noticed I lost braking on what I thought was my front wheel. I keep checking but all OK on front brake. Only after a while I realized it was my rear brake which was gone A visual check was enough to see that the clip holding the brake pads (and the pads themselves) was gone; no wonder I had no brakes. Fortunately I had all necessary spare parts and was able to fix it quickly.
While doing so, Dennis and Pamela rode by, helped me in repairing, and we kept riding together for the rest of the morning until lac Chambon. I soaked my shirt and my bandana in the lake to cool down. The rest of the ride to Besse felt long, hot and tiring. The beer upon arrival was DELICIOUS. I stayed in hotel de la providence et de la poste (+33 04 7379 5149) where dinner was really excellent (and no truffade on the menu!)
Besse-Allanches: 50 km, 1200 m D+, 42 degrees Celsius max.
Another long uphill to start, more walking! I took advantage of my slow progress to check my front brake and it was also loosing the clip holding the pin in place. I tightened it as much as possible, and kept checking on it. I passed various lakes: Pavin, Montcineyre etc.
The short cut I took to avoid La Godivelle was fun: a single track with grass tall enough to reach the handlebar. Slow ride to col de Chamaroux and climb to plateau du Cezalier, one of my preferred area of the trip. Empty plateau with some cattle, nothing but grass and sky. Beautiful.
As soon as I arrived in Allanches I found a garage to get some clips for my brakes and installed them on a more permanent and reliable way. Now I can ride without worries.
A guy came in the hotel on a mono-wheel, He told me he is riding around the volcanoes park for a week, and can ride up to 200 km a day. Hotel des remparts (+33 04 7120 9800) acceptable nothing exceptional.
Allanches-saint Flour: 42 km, 700 m D+, 43 degrees Celsius max.
Another tough uphill to start the day, so another walk for me! Good ride to Chalinargues and Neussargues. Long hard uphill to combe Robert to reach a shadeless plateau under intense sun.
Fun downhill to le Sailhant and its castle. Thereafter I took a shortcut on the road to reach saint Flour. I was tired from the heat and the sun; the two pints upon arrival in hotel tasted fantastic.
I went to visit the cathedral: I may have walked one or one and half kilometer and only saw 2 persons. The heat in saint Flour at 17:00 was exhausting.
My room in hotel du Nord was right above a bar, so noisy it kept me awake until 02:00. NOT HAPPY.
Saint Flour-Paulhac en Margeride: 43km,1100 m D+, 33 degrees Celsius max.
I started early to enjoy the cool temperature. Boring passage near le Pirou with big roads and no shade. Good ride to Ruynes en Margeride and nasty uphill (more footwork for me) to go to monument de la resistance. Fortunately there was a bar which sold cold water. Down to Paulhac and auberge du bon acceuil (Daniel owner, +33 04 6631 7346) where I stayed in 2008 with Jim and mike. This time I had a room all to myself, no dormitory! Hotel was OK but barely.
Paulhac en Margeride-le Giraldes: 51 km, 1100 m D+, 40 degrees Celsius max.
Another uphill start, seems that villages are in valleys so first thing to do is go up, which translates to more walk for me. Reached Chanaleilles with its church with a double row of bells on an open steeple.
I met a family following chemin de Compostelle, grand father, father, two sons and a cousin who lives in Wisconsin. They do 3-400 km at a time, jump the less interesting parts and start another 3-400 km the year after. Grand father says it works great for the kids and the parents.
This section of the GTMC joins the chemin de Compostelle, track so many walkers in different styles, the hats where original. Saw le gite “le Sauvage” where most of the walkers spend the nite. Unpleasant section with roots and stones to arrive at “barraque des bouviers” where I could refill up with water.
Fun downhill to le gite du Giraldes ( +33 04 6647 9270 or +33 06 4858 3196) where I was the only one and had a good light healthy dinner. Current owner, Marie, is the daughter of the lady who managed it in 2008 when I stayed with Jim and mike. Nice stay and good food. Great cool nite,10 degrees.
Le Giraldes- Bagnols-les-bains: 47 km, 700 D+, 37 degrees Celsius max.
After talking to Betsy we agreed to meet in Bagnols around 12:30-13:00 which would give me 4-5 hours of riding. Up again to reach “truc de Fortunio”: a massive antenna with a 360 degrees panorama.
Fun ride to lac de Charpal, initially intended to be a dump for WWI ammunitions, but in fact used as drinking water reservoir. Only problem was this group of quads blasting along and sending clouds of dust my way, really they should not be allowed on small roads.
Down by “le felgeas” small village lost in the mountains and the ruins of “chateau de Tournel”.
A last nasty downhill (which I walked as too dangerous for me) brought me to Bagnols where Betsy arrived while I was enjoying my end-of-trip beer.
We had planned to go to chalet du mont lozere near sommet de Finiels to spend the night and meet our friends Anne and Jean-Louis
While eating lunch on our way we saw Anne and Jean-Louis in their little red sport car and asked them to join us for lunch. A quick drive to Chalet du mont Lozere (+33 04 6649 0393) where we were spending the night followed by a hike to the sommet de Finiels (1699 m), aka mont Lozere, where Anne and Betsy made it to the very top without problem. Cocktails and a good dinner concluded the day. No problem sleeping!!
Next morning drive straight to Torraccia (11 hours)
Last words:
A beautiful week in the center of France with landscapes so different from the ones we are used to in Italy.
The stages were about the right length and vertical climb, the real (and serious) problem was the intense heat. (I have to admit I was worried at the beginning of the trip about how I would resist and avoid heat stroke, in fact I’m surprised I did not have any problems beside being tired! ) Carrying emergency spare parts and basic tools allowed me to continue the trip safely. It was still a physically demanding trip I would not have been able to complete without my regular outings at home.
Meeting Anne and Jean-Louis at the end of the trip was quite enjoyable since we do not see them very often due to distance.